Cwm Idwal Climbing day

After returning form Scotland and WML assessment last Friday, I swore that was it for winter.  But, exceptional weather conditions in Snowdonia, a lack of proper winter climbing this season, a reasonable forecast and a mate with a free day persuaded me otherwise !

So, yesterday (Wednesday 27/03) we hot footed it to Cwm Idwal hoping to get one of the honeypot routes done before the hordes descend at the week-end.

We arrived at the car park easily enough via well cleared roads, but the car park itself was shut.  We managed to park at the roadside - but beware if coming at the week-end !

The walk in was easy enough until the point where we headed steeply up to the routes proper (compact snow on the path) but was a bit harder thereafter, a mix of soft stuff, breakable crust and some hard neve.  I think staying on the path longer and then cutting back left looked easier.

From a distance most routes looked there, if a little thin. We had set our sights on the screen/ramp area and as we rounded the corner could see both looked doable .... and both had parties on or just gearing up :-(  As we looked on from behind the comparative safety of a rock outcrop, the second on the Screen party looked to be having a mighty struggle and just then knocked a load of ice including a 1 x 0.5 m boulder size chunk which just grazed the leg of the leader gearing up in front of us.  This was to be a theme for the Screen, with a number of parties all knocking off massive chunks of ice ! We decided the Ramp looked a better bet and settled down to get ready at leisure whilst the party in front got a safe distance ahead; although a 3 with two novices, the leader was a PYB instructor and they moved fairly quickly, but I could hear comments about brittle ice drifting back every now and then.

Gearing up sheltered from 'Screen' debris - 'Ramp' in background

Once they had gained the top of the ramp I moved fairly swiftly to a position tucked in at the bottom of the ramp proper, on an in-situ peg and screw belay.  By the time my second arrived they had disappeared, so we could sort out and get on with the crux pitch, though the guy leading up behind almost on my seconds arse was an unwelcome sight - especially as there was no room at the belay for them - IMO not only is this dangerous, it is disrespectful and thoughtless; I don't want to be worrying about whether ice I knock off is going to hit another party belayed directly in the fall line or listen to a running commentary about my climb whilst I'm doing it ! Ok, rant over !

I have to say I found the crux section quite hard for its grade.  The ice was thin and brittle where it was needed most, the screws not great and the section quite steep for a few moves - unlike some of the pics I've seen when the ice is fatter. However, after a few steady moves and thinking about my footwork, the angle eased, the ice got better and I was at the top, belayed on 2 screws and a nut and bringing my second up.

The last pitch was dispatched quickly and easily, the hardest bit being the initial moves round the corner into the groove.  The over zealous crew behind us got delayed at this stage, the second losing his crampon on the crux moves - poetic justice I say :-)

The weather was not as good as expected overall, and we had quite frequent snow showers and spindrift at times, but it did clear up as we topped out to give a bit of sun and amazing views across the valley. No picture unfortunately :-(

Mission accomplished and no time for a second climb, we had to hot foot it back to the car so my mate could get back to pick his kids up form Nursery at 6 pm - apparently, there is only so much freedom a married man with kids can negotiate :-)

All in all a great day, good to do some ice, but not easy conditions in my opinion.   I'm bereft of partners for a few days now and no great desire to fight for a pitch over Easter week-end.   So, maybe this really was my last winter outing and I am desperate to start focusing on rock climbing again, but if it stays cold into next week who knows ? ;-)

Winter Mountaineering Skills

As part of my February winter extravaganza, I attended 5 days of winter skills refresher courses targeted at people looking to do Winter ML or MIC assessments, run by Phil Dowthwaite, an IFMGA Guide.  The week was based in Fort William using venues on Aanoch Mor and Glencoe.

The week broke down into 3 elements. These could all be attended independently, but I went for all 3 and got myself a discount :-)


Teaching Winter Skills:

A two-day workshop.  Day one was spent looking at the delivery of winter skills with critique from peers, opportunities to promote current best practice and receive feedback, all aimed at the winter ML syllabus.

Day two was a winter journey encompassing graded ground in ascent and descent, avalanche awareness and all that it entails.

Me about to do a classic abseil over a cornice off
a snow bollard

Avalanche Awareness:

A one day workshop with Lectures in Fort William and practical exercises in The Glencoe White Corries Ski Area and avalanche rescue park. Details of snow analysis, avalanche avoidance and rescue techniques using transceivers and probes were all covered during the day.

Winter Mountaineering and short roping skills:

A two day workshop suitable for Winter ML trainees/award holders and MIC trainees, looking at the skills used in short roping and confidence roping in winter, approaching the base of climbs, steep steps and the  rope skills  used when ascending and descending ridges in winter.  Venues visited were  the Zig-Zags in Glencoe and  the upper section of Golden Oldie on the West Face of Aanoch Mor.  Some of this was arguably out of WML remit, and one of the guys on this module was a trainee MIC, but as Phil said it is a grey area and it was interesting to contrast the different techniques at the disposal of the MIC and WML holder.

Overall this was a thoroughly worthwhile and enjoyable course delivered in a relaxed, friendly but very knowledgeable way by Phil.  I certainly learnt a lot and it made me feel much more confident about my impending Winter ML assessment.  I think Phil has just taken these over this year form Tim Blakemore and hopefully he will run them again next year -I'd certainly recommend them for anyone working towards WML.  As an added bonus, these days all come with CPD (Continuing Professional Development) points so that's me sorted for a while :-)