Monday, 8 April 2013

Winter ML last word: Syllabus review


Ok , so I've gone about Winter ML in various guises for a few blogs now, so this is my last post on this subject - honest !

As promised in a previous blog, here are my  - hopefully constructive - comments on the WINTER ML SYLLABUS and process as sent to George McEwan.  Some of this needs to be seen in the context of a UKClimbing forum discussion on the introduction of an intermediate award for less serious mountain terrain such as Dartmoor/Exmoor and the Peak District (see bottom of this blog for more info).
Syllabus general: Feels ok overall, a big step up from Summer (at least for those of us who had proper winter conditions and didn't get to use altimeters) but so are the conditions and consequences – we should not be tailoring awards down to a price.  I wouldn’t agree with the idea of a general intermediate award.  Though an area specific award for Dartmoor/Exmoor (already exists ?) and Peak District MAY be appropriate, what do you leave out ? There have been avalanches there this winter !  The Lakes and Snowdonia should only ever be full WML territory. 

Specific thoughts below:
QMDs: There were times when, as a Sassenach trying to get to assessment level, I cursed the ‘50% minimum in Scotland’ requirement and I do think that being lost in a blizzard in the Carneddau for instance, can be as serious as many Scottish locations. On reflection however, I think the requirement is needed to ensure the variety in experiences and it has made me more rounded as a winter leader.
Route planning and prep: While covered, does not seem to be a major element. This could be further emphasised, particularly in terms of avalanche awareness / avoidance as well as group fitness and exposure to the elements.
Use of Altimeters not permitted: Why not ?!  I have no problem with people being asked to do a leg without them, but IMO they are an invaluable tool in tough conditions and should be embraced, with people being briefed / taught on their use - and limitations - in training.
GPS: slightly more controversial maybe, but I think that these should also be brought into remit in a limited way e.g. to provide an accurate Grid Ref in extreme conditions or emergency. I personally think any Winter ML who doesn’t take a GPS device of some sort on the hill, could be seen as negligent.
Avalanche rescue:  I think the case is building for taking this a bit more seriously – a couple of questions on a home paper doesn’t really cut it IMO.  As Winter leaders we have a general responsibility to people out on the mountain, not just our own group and being trained in this area could save lives. Having done IML winter training I have had some exposure in this area.   However, some candidates on my assessment had probes but had never used - or been shown how to use - them except to check depth for snowholing.  Ditto transceivers – we were all asked to carry them due to the conditions, but I was the only one who had ever used one.
Snowholing: I personally quite like this, but its position in the syllabus and assessment seems ambiguous i.e. we have to do it but it’s not within our remit, even though - as I understand it – MICs don’t do snowholing for their assessment. If it’s just to keep us on the mountain then fair enough, but be clear what it is there for, or there are bothy / shelter options.
Assessment consistency: From what I pick up there seems to be some inconsistency in the assessment process e.g. 1 poster on the UKC thread said he thought the nav was actually a bit easier than Summer ML because he was allowed to use an altimeter – I was told on day 1 they are not in syllabus and therefore not allowed !  Also, it appears some assessors seem to think candidates should be thoroughly beasted to the point of cracking (setting a very high pace to tire people out, two night navs until the early hours etc.) whereas others seem pretty laid back.  Not sure what you do about it, except provide clear guidance backed up by feedback and moderation.
Feedback during assessment: I don’t see why candidates can’t be given some constructive feedback during the assessment process which would help them to give a better performance e.g. ‘your navigation isn’t currently quite as accurate as we would expect’ would allow the candidate to learn what is expected and give them the opportunity to tighten it up.

For anyone interested and prepared to lose themselves for a few hours, here is the relevant UKC forum post:

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